Fix the Loop!

Don’t you hate when this happens? You are doing an embroidery design, or a monogram, or even an applique and your thread “loops” up on you. I’ve struggled forever with this and what causes it. There have been times where I’ve totally blamed the spool of thread. It was a bad spool or the thread was not twisting off the spool correctly. Recently I did some knit toboggan hats and my monogram looped on every.single.one.of.them. I emailed my sewing machine guy and he said it was a density issue. For example, knit hats + dense monogram = the thread/needle does not penetrate the knit properly and therefore loops. Sometimes I think my machine is dusty or dirty, so I change all my needles and clean the bobbin area to get rid of any dust or pieces of thread.

Below is a “Footprint” embroidery design I’ve recently sewn on 3 dozen burp cloths for a local ministry, Footprints Ministry. As you can see by my arrows on the photo below, the thread looped up on me in one spot. If this happens, don’t cut it! That may cause your design to unravel. What I USED to do was stick a regular needle or straight pin through and then try to pull the thread to the back by pulling on my bobbin thread in that area with a needle. It worked most of the time. Now if your monogram loops terribly and you’re looking at 15 places where the thread is loopy, then you might need to remove the monogram and back up and sew it again. But, if it’s just a loop here & there, I have a great tool for you.

photo

It even has a cute name ~ Dritz brand Snag Nab-It!! I got mine at Joann and it looks like this. It’s basically a needle (just shy of 2.5″ long) with 1 sharp end and the other end resembles an emery board. It’s jagged like sandpaper. They are $2.99 and are considered Notions, so catch them on sale or use a coupon. I also found some on Amazon.

photo (6)

So here’s how it works! You stick the Snag Nab-It in to your garment where the loop starts or finishes. You may notice the needle is pretty thick, so it can be a little tough to pull the needle all the way through (especially pulling the jagged end through). If it leaves a hole, then spritz a little water on your garment and it should be fine.

photo (1)

As you pull the needle through, the rough end grabs the loose thread and pulls it through to the back of your item (back there with the bobbin thread). You could then apply a little Fray Check on the back of the item or leave it as is. The thread would have to be pulled to come back through to the top which is unlikely.

photo (2)

Here’s a closeup of the end.

photo (21)

As you can see below, the loop is gone! I successfully pulled it through the burp cloth to the back of the design. Yay!

photo (5)

Here is another example! I monogrammed this bib today and the thread I was using is an off-brand thread that I never use. As you can see, it didn’t “loop” too terribly bad, but the monogram is not as tight as I would like.

photo (8)

Again, I stuck the Snag Nab-It through the bib where the loose thread was (on the very edge of the satin stitch) and pulled it through.

photo (9)

As you can see, it tightened that loose thread by pulling it through to the back side of the bib. Ironing also helps “set” the monogram. I keep my iron on medium heat, no steam. I have heard that rayon thread can melt, but I use 100% polyester embroidery thread so ironing it quickly only “sets” the monogram. I typically use Isacord (www.sewingmachine.com) or Exquisite thread (www.kenssewingcenter.com) which are almost identical.

photo (7)

Hopefully this helps with that frustrating looping problem! Do you have any other cool tools you use? If so comment and share!

Covering a Monogram

Just a quick post this Sunday! One of my longtime customers brought me a little jon jon last week and asked me to cover up the monogram that was originally on there (that she had picked out). The photo below is very light so you may not be able to see it all that well. She did a good job of removing the old monogram, but did cut the jon jon in one tiny place. She patched it, so I just needed to cover the monogram with an applique as best as I could. Her suggestions: our Sailboat or Sailboat Patch (I chose Sailboat 2) or our circle patch with new initials. All good choices!

IMG_8814

I decided to give our Sailboat 2 a try, and to make sure it would cover the monogram, I printed the 4×4 design on paper in Sew What Pro using the PRINT feature. It basically prints an image of each step and a final stitchout of the design. I cut around the design and even in between the sails and the bottom of the boat. I was then able to place the “design” on to the jon jon and SEE if any of the old monogram would show through. It covered it pretty well, and I got the design in the right position to cover up the monogram while being centered on the jon jon.  The jon jon had a center seam going down the front of it, so I used that as my horizontal center.

IMG_8815

Gridlines also printed on my design, so I was able to get the sailboat in good position and stick a pin through where my center should be. I then lifted the paper away and marked my center using an air erasable marker. You can see the mark on my first photo above.  I hooped the jon jon and lined my needle up with the center mark and sewed the design. (As you can see below, my pin is slightly right of the center mark on the grid. I wanted the center seam of the jon jon to line up with the center of the pole of the sailboat so I lined it up that way.)

IMG_8816

It turned out perfect, and the monogram was covered!

IMG_8817

My customer has 3 grandsons, so it’s great to be able to re-use custom made outfits such as this!

IMG_8821

Here is another blog post on covering a monogram: click HERE or on the photo below! Sometimes you are able to remove an old monogram cleanly and just re-monogram over it. If the monogram is too small or tight and impossible to remove (or if you cut a hole in the garment like I’ve done many times), then I suggest you take out what you can, and cover it with an applique! We have tons of PATCH designs that work well.

fish

 

Stay tuned for my next post on a new discovery I found!! If your monograms or appliques get “loopy” every now & then, you will want to read the next post!

Applique Cafe on YouTube!

Good afternoon! I’m sampling new designs today {which you can always catch on Instagram} and finally getting around to a blog post from September 2013! Jeff & I have some friends who have been telling us for years that we need to do more with video, so one sunny day back in September, I decided to do just that. I had a new design to sample and on a whim, I videoed it with my Iphone. For the record, I hate my voice on video just as we all do. Also, I am an A-M-A-T-E-U-R videographer person-with-a-phone. Lastly, I have yet to master splicing 6 videos together, so there are 6 videos in this segment to watch. Lastly again, I was taking the video solo, so that’s why I had to stop and start so many times so I could actually sew the design. My phone doesn’t seem to have a “pause” button. Lighting is so-so and there is a part where I’m talking over my machine and you can’t hear me. Overlook all that and MAYBE you will learn something?

This series of videos might be helpful if A) you have a multi needle machine and aren’t quite sure how to use it or B) you are new to applique and want to understand how it works. I supplemented the video with a few photos too so I will try to explain the process and get you through this post!

Background: I am sewing a simple 1 fabric zig zag design (Zig Zag Moose) on my Brother PR650 6 needle machine. I like to assign thread colors to my machine and here I explain how and why I do that. This is a sample for Applique Cafe, so I sewed it on 2 layers of medium cutaway stabilizer in my 5×7 hoop (PES format).

zig zag moose 500

Here is video 1!

Just a closeup of the colors of thread on my machine, which I “assign” to each needle so my machine knows what colors it has to work with. I mention in the video that 1 needle out of my 6 is always free and you can’t “lock in” that color. It can be any needle, and I usually allow my free needle to be white or black. So if black is on needle 1, then that’s my free needle and there is no anchor by it on the screen.

IMG_8336

Closeup of my HOME screen. The top 2 rows are built in designs and fonts. I use a USB stick which is the button I pointed to. Side note: I have a USB cord that connects from my computer to my machine, but for some reason it takes forever to send something to my machine, so I just use the thumb drive (see Sewingmachine.com stick). I think there is something wrong with that USB port on my machine, but I have not wanted to part with my machine long enough to get it checked out! The checklist looking button is where you go to assign colors.

IMG_8337

IMG_8338

IMG_8339

I changed needle 6 from Khaki to Light Brown using Reset and Set buttons! “Set” assigns light brown to needle 6.

IMG_8342

These are the colors of thread currently on my machine.

IMG_8343

Here is video 2 and video 3.

There is a pause between them because my thread broke! I left off after video 3 with fabric prep, which is below. I cut my piece of plaid fabric for my Moose.

IMG_8344

I iron my fabric to get any wrinkles out. Generic Target Shark iron and I keep it on mediumish (not high) with NO STEAM.

IMG_8345

I’ve cut a piece of Heat N Bond Lite and I’ve ironed it on the back side of my fabric. If you don’t know what HNBL is, check out this post. It’s a fusible product which will fuse the applique fabric (the plaid) to my garment. Or in this case, my stabilizer!

IMG_8346

Don’t forget to peel away the paper! It will leave a shiny layer on the back side of your fabric.

IMG_8347

I’ve placed my HNBL-ed fabric down after the marking stitch, so now it’s time for the tackdown stitch and

video 4.

After video 4 I trimmed around my design (around the tackdown stitch) using my Gingher 4″ curved scissors. These are great for trimming and makes it easy to get up close to the tackdown stitch. Havels has a tiny curved scissor as well.

photo

Here is video 5

…after I’ve trimmed my fabric and I’m ready for the zig zag FINAL stitch. I tried to say something at the end of the video but you can’t hear me over the buzz of the machine. Sorry ’bout that!! Sew sew sew and lastly there’s

video 6 which wraps up this design!

I hope this is helpful! If you have any questions, feel free to comment! I hope to do some more videos in the future, and you can find them on my YouTube channel!  New designs coming soon to Applique Cafe!